Find the right UPS for your computer in a minute. Scan your PC, upload a Windows report or enter your parts — we calculate the wattage, VA and battery runtime you need.
Choose the way you prefer. You can edit everything afterwards.
🔒 The tool only reads hardware model names (processor, graphics card, memory, disks, monitors). No files, names or serial numbers, and nothing is sent anywhere. It is plain text you can read: view the source code
🔒 The file is read only inside your browser — it is never uploaded to any server.
Add everything that should keep running during a power cut: monitors, speakers, router and more.
👉 Your PC was added. The scan can't see devices outside the computer — add speakers, external drives, router, modem and anything else you want on the UPS.
Watt values are estimates. Edit them if you know the real numbers.
A UPS must deliver the total power of all connected devices at the same time. The biggest consumers are the graphics card and the processor, followed by monitors. Drives, fans and memory add only a few watts each. Because a PC power supply loses some energy as heat, the power taken from the wall is higher than what the parts use — the calculator adds this automatically.
UPS units are sold by VA (for example 1500 VA), but what really matters is the watt rating. Most home UPS units deliver only 60–70% of their VA as watts, so a 1500 VA unit is usually rated around 900–1000 W. Always check that the watt rating covers your peak load with a safety margin of 10–30%.
Almost every modern desktop power supply uses active PFC. With cheaper "simulated sine wave" UPS units, these power supplies may shut down or make noise when switching to battery. For a desktop PC, choose a pure sine wave UPS. For a router or modem, a simulated sine wave is fine.
For most people, 5–10 minutes is enough to save work and shut down safely, and a USB cable lets the UPS shut the computer down by itself. If you need to keep working through longer outages, you need much more battery capacity — look for models with extra battery packs, and size the UPS for runtime, not only for power.
Line-interactive UPS units with AVR fix small voltage drops and surges without using the battery and suit most homes and offices. Online (double-conversion) UPS units power your devices continuously through the inverter. They cost more but give the cleanest power, and suit places with unstable electricity, generators or sensitive equipment.
A typical gaming PC with a mid-range graphics card and one monitor uses 300–450 W under load, so a 1000–1500 VA pure sine wave UPS (600–900 W) is usually right. High-end PCs with an RTX 4090 or 5090 often need 1500–2200 VA. Use the calculator above for your exact parts.
No. A 850 W power supply is the maximum it can deliver, not what your PC actually uses. Most PCs use 30–60% of their power supply rating. Sizing a UPS by the power supply label usually means paying for a much bigger unit than you need.
It depends on the battery size and the load. A typical 1500 VA UPS runs a 300 W gaming PC for about 8–12 minutes and a 100 W office PC for about 30 minutes. Halving the load more than doubles the runtime.
Yes. It is a short, readable PowerShell script that only reads hardware model names using standard Windows functions. It does not install anything, change settings or send data. If you prefer not to run anything, use the Windows report (dxdiag) or enter your parts manually.
Not a laser printer: it draws a very high current while heating and can overload the UPS. Inkjet printers are fine. Plug a laser printer into the surge-only outlets of the UPS, if it has them, or straight into the wall.
Usually 3–5 years, depending on temperature and how often it is used. Most UPS units warn you when the battery needs replacing, and many models let you replace the battery yourself.